Tra Anatole e la toilette, la moda

Una professoressa buffa, un giorno a lezione in quel di Napoli, tanto seria, citò Anatole France e con tono solenne disse: “Se nel guazzabuglio di opere pubblicate cent’anni dopo la mia morte io avessi la facoltà di scegliere un libro sapete quale prenderei? (…) Semplicemente, amico mio, prenderei un giornale di moda per sapere come si vestivano le donne un secolo dopo il mio trapasso. E tali vestiti mi darebbero sull’umanità futura più informazioni che tutti i filosofi, i predicatori e gli scenziati messi insieme.”

Così, da brava studentessa, ho registrato, memorizzato, archiviato. Poi ho riflettuto che probabilmente io, un secolo dopo la mia morte avrei avuto preoccupazioni differenti da quelle dell’illuminato Anatole. Al contrario, oggi, che sono tanto giovane e curiosa mi guardo indietro, mi chiedo chi sono, da dove vengo e, ripercorrendo a ritroso la storia dell‘umanità, leggo nei cambiamenti delle mode e dei costumi, come a dar ragione al saggio Anatole, significative metamorfosi dello stile di vita della società.

Così, imparo che se nello scaffale del ripostiglio, tra le mie scarpe, uno spazio è riservato ad un paio di zeppe altissime in sughero, è perchè nel clima autarchico dell’Italia mussoliniana, un calzolaio di nome Salvatore Ferragamo non si arrese al rarefarsi delle materie prime e, facendo della necessità virtù, creò le famosissime zeppe di sughero dai mille colori.

Se per sentirmi elegante ho bisogno di indossare un tubino nero, probabilmente è perchè ho rivisto troppe volte “Colazione da Tiffany” e in qualche modo infido e meraviglioso quel film ha plagiato la mia visione estetica.

Ma se Hubert de Givenchy arrivò a disegnare il celebre little black dress indossato dalla graziosa Audrey Hepburn, è perchè una certa Coco Chanel, negli anni venti, liberò le donne da bustini e sottogonne, optando per un abito semplice e poco costruito. Fu così che ispirandosi alle divise delle domestiche creò un abito comodo che sembrava dire alle donne: “Svegliatevi, è l‘ora della libertà, è l’ora dell’emancipazione!”

Allora sì che si son date da fare le donne, hanno scoperto le caviglie e hanno iniziato a lottare.

Forse troppo curiosa mi chiedo perchè dopo la conquista del diritto di voto, del diritto all’uguaglianza, del diritto alla libertà di indossare i tanto pratici pantaloni, sulla porta della toilette pubblica la distinzione tra uomo e donna debba farla ancora la gonna.

Riposa tranquillo, caro Anatole, ci son cose che non cambieranno mai.

Edna

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